Doug Ferguson on Friend's and Lovers 5.9R

This weekend actually started out on Thursday’s AMGA Single Pitch Assessment for me.  The assessment was done at the Peterskill in Minnewaska State Park Preserve.  That’s the first time we saw the fire, it wasn’t super big at that time, but big enough to say a few four letter words and move on with the day.  Friday brought the last day of the assessment and it also brought the realization that the fire had gotten pretty big in Minnewaska.  Winds out of the north told New Paltz residents that the ridge was indeed on fire.  Mountain Skills had a great group on Saturday out at the Larson farm well away from the danger of the smoke, fire, and the crowds climbing at the Trapps.  What a beautiful day in the sun and warm weather, spring is here for good.  The end of the weekend people started to hear that the fire had consumed close to 4000 acres in Minnewaska.  On Sunday I wanted to climb a little with my good friend Tony from Rock and Snow.  We hit the Trapps late on Sunday morning and bumped into another good bud, Mark, at the top of the stair master.  The cliff was packed with people enjoying the last of the weekend.  We climbed Arch 5.5, Strickley’s 5.7, and a new one for me Friends and Lovers 5.9 with Snooky’s last pitch 5.8 to finish the afternoon.  The fire was finally being contained and the long weekend was coming to a close.  It saddens me to know those beautiful woods in Minnewaska burned, but it is also part of natures natural cycle for the land to re-energize itself.  It is also the same for climbers coming to the Gunks every weekend, people need to re-energize themselves with climbing and getting in tune with nature again.

Pitch 1 Arrow 5.8

The weather report for the weekend was pretty grim looking.  Friday night got the rain that was predicted and it was foggy in the morning.  I decided to hit the cliff with Roger from Rock and Snow around 12 in the morning to find some dry rock.  What we found was warm temps. and dry rock under dramatic partly cloudy skies.  The clouds were amazing floating by and a partial moon was out and the route selection couldn’t have been better.  We hit the ultra-classic Arrow 5.8 because it dries fast from its exposure.  Man what a good route!  Pitch two has three thoughtful cruxes and the view from the inviting belay ledge is amazing.  Roger and I took our time getting back to our packs and talked about the good snacks we had waiting for us on the ground.  Once back on terra firma we walked over to Silhouette 5.7+R.  The crack on the upper section of the climb was incredible.  What a good long pitch.  Once both of us hit the ledge and decompressed we started talking about ice cream.  That was all it took for or half day mission.  Time to hit New Paltz for some homemade ice cream.  What a Day!!

Pitch 1 Something Intresting 5.7+

Doug Ferguson on pitch 1 Something Interesting 5.7+

All I can say is wow, another day of classics in the Gunks.  I decided to hit up some variations today with my pal Chris. Oscar and Charlies is 5.7,and three routes rolled into one.  Each pitch is totally different from the other and should be added to any ones tick list.  The first corner pitch of Charlies to the wild roof pitch of Strickey from Nowhere and the last steep exposed pitch of Oscars.  Quite a nice variation from the norm.  Once we got back to our packs I decided to climb Something Interesting 5.7+.  Two thoughtful cruxes, good gear,Peregrines flying around under bluebird skies, con trails from airplanes floating above, the warmth of the sun, who could ask for more.  I surely couldn’t and pretty much decompressed after getting back to the ground.  One more pitch was in order to finish the day, Classy 5.8 is a variation of Classic 5.7.  Thin moves on the bottom and the crazy jug haul roof move at the finish really topped the day off for us. Bring the sun, bring the rock, spring climbing is here!!!

A couple of weeks ago I decided to put away all the ice climbing gear and focus on rock again.  I was tired of cold weather and wanted to walk around in shorts and flip flops for about 9 months.  I still haven’t got out the shorts or flip flops, but I have had some amazing days rock climbing in the Trapps.  Easy routes, hard routes it’s funny how new they seem after winter.  It’s also funny how they keep on blowing me away how good they are.  This past weekend I climbed a bunch of classic routes with a couple of my good friends.  It was relaxed and casual,  joking and laughing for a good part of the day.  It was was the Gunks just as I had left it in late fall to go ice climbing.  Good partners, enjoying what Mohonk has to offer.  Classic spring climbing in the Gunks.