Lillian and I climbed at the Trapps on Sunday November 29th.  It was amazing out with temps close to 50.  We started out climbing Minty 5.3 in 3 pitches to the top.   3 Raps brought back to our packs.  Rapping off this area is a little more complicated since the tree on top of pitch 2 has died.

Once we got back to our bags we headed down to the Guides Wall and climbed Finger Locks 5.5 with the last pitch of Hyjeck’s Horror 5.4.  That last pitch is great face climbing with a thin crux move at a small overlap.  2 Raps back to our bags basically got us to the end of the day.  Pretty amazing for the end of November.

John Mackey and I have been planning on doing the Case Route on Wallface in the Adirondacks in the winter.  We decided to do a alpine same day in and out mission.  I have climbed a handful of routes on Wallface before so I know what to expect back in that area.  The forecast from Weather Channel and also NOAA was for 20% chance of rain, partly cloudy skies and 50 degress.  Sounds like good conditions for climbing in the Adirondacks on November 24th. 

We arrived at the parking lot late the night before.  Got up at 4:00am for a 5:ooam start.  It was misting and kind of raining the entire way in.  The trail was trashed and totally under water.  Both of our shoes were soaked.  The same approach shoes we were going to climb in.  Thank God for that second pair of socks we both brought.

Once we got to Summit Rock we took a small break.  The ceiling was very low and you could not see 50 feet in front of you.  Everything was wet.  We made our way to the base of the climb and racked up for a small adventure.  We managed to climb 4 pitches before we bailed.  At that point you could not see more than 20 feet or so.  We made our way back to our packs for some more food and a long walk back.

Slightly crushed with our bad luck with the weather we still had a good time.  The next time in will be in the winter.  I’m sure things will go better for us.

The rock guiding season is winding down in the Gunks and vacations start coming to mind.  Red Rocks is one of our favorite spots for late fall rock climbing.  Mark Folsom, Mike Farnsworth and I decided to head out west for some long moderate climbing.  Frogshead 5.8 III was our first climb of this trip.  Frogshead is a total blast with each pitch being totally different from they other.  One of the best things about it was the walk off.  No stuck ropes on this gem.  The view of the Black Velvet Wall is amazing from the top of Frogshead. The next day we decided to climb Crimson Chrysalis 5.8 III.  We got to the gate around 6am to find a couple of cars in front of us.  Both groups were going for the same climb so we opted for Birdland 5.7+ II.  Birdland was pretty fun with the crux being on the third pitch.  Pitch 4 and 5 has really cool face climbing with a beautiful crack to finish pitch 5.  We rapped the route before any groups caught up to us.  Early starts really help with not having a ton of people stacked on a small belay perch.

The next day we decided to climb Crimson Chrysalis 5.8 III.  We got to the gate around 6am to find a couple of cars in front of us.  Both groups were going for the same climb so we opted for Birdland 5.7+ II.  Birdland was pretty fun with the crux being on the third pitch.  Pitch 4 and 5 has really cool face climbing with a beautiful crack to finish pitch 5.  We rapped the route before any groups caught up to us.  Early starts really help with not having a ton of people stacked on a small belay perch.

We decided since we got bumped on Crimson Chrysalis that day we would give it a try the next day.  We got to the gate first this time.  Cars started to line up behind us.  We thought for sure we would have company on the route.  The three of us basically ran up to the base of the climb and racked up for a full day.  We ended up being the only team on the route all day.  Amazing!

Crimson Chrysalis is 9 pitches and 1000 ft.  dead vertical.  The anchors are all bolted with poor stances at each belay.  Not super comfy for a team of three.  Pitches 2 and 3 can be combined as well as pitches 8 and 9.  The climbing is steep and exposed with good holds showing up when ever needed.  Just like the Gunks only on a larger scale.  We finished the route in 6 hours.  We rapper the route making sure not to get any ropes stuck.  What a fantastic day.  We had the route to ourselves with not another sole around.

Pitch 2 of Beginner's Delight 5.3 Trapps

Monday I guided Joe and Suzanne in the Trapps.  I have been guiding these two for a couple of days.  We decided to start the day with Beginner’s Delight 5.3.  This route is the best of its grade.  The exposure on pitch 3, belay situations and excellent rock quality make it a total classic.  After the long rappel off the Madam G’s ledge we headed down to Frog’s Head 5.6-.  Both pitches on Frog’s Head are fantastic.  Totally different from each other.  We finished the day with the three star classic City Light’s 5.8-.  It’s hard to complain about life with routes and weather like this.

Carla on pitch 2 of Gelsa 5.4 in the Near Trapps

Dickey Barre in the Peterskill

Saturdays for the last three weeks have been a wash in the Gunks, but any other day has been pretty amazing.  Mid-week climbing right now is really good.  The temps have been very comfortable and the rock has been dry.  The leafs are a beautiful yellow across the ridge line.  This makes sitting on the GT Ledge even that much better.  The local farms are once again busy selling fall favorites.  The next couple of weeks should be great.

High Exposure 5.6 just before the GT Ledge

Chuck Boyd climbing the last pitch of High Exposure 5.6 in a October snow storm

Full conditions in the Gunks

Well all I can say is yesterday was pretty interesting and fun.  Chuck Boyd and a friend went to the Trapps to climb High Exposure 5.6+.  I decided to tag along and take some pictures.  The weather report was for precipitation around 5pm or so.  I think we made it to 12:00pm before we were in a full on mid-October snow storm.  The snow started to stick to fallen leaves and spider webs.  I’m sure the spiders were caught by surprise as well.  This short lived taste of winter won’t last long.  Hopefully we can get back to some real fall weather.

Mark Folsom guiding Classic 5.7 at the Trapps

Looking down the cliff line at the Near Trapps and Millbrook

 The fall colors in the Gunks are really popping right now.  It seems if you turn your head they are a different color.  The Adirondacks and White Mountains are already receiving snow in the higher elevations.  With the cooler temps hitting earlier this year it’s time to get to the cliff and climb some classics while it’s still warm out.  We are running daily climbing trips to the Gunks.  If you would like one or two last hoorah’s outside call 845-853-5450 or check out or web site at www.mountainskills.biz

Chuck Boyd climbing near the Arrow Wall

Sabastian climbing to the anchor on Frogs Head 5.6-

Doug Ferguson climbing Annie O 5.8 on the Arrow Wall

We had some amazing days here in the Gunks last week.  It is that perfect weather right before things turn south for the winter.  Warm, dry, no bugs, no humidity and during the week no crowds.  October is shaping up to be great this season.  We have a ton of fun things going on in the New Paltz area.  The slide shows at Rock and Snow and the New Paltz Climbing Film Fest are a total blast.  Traditionally the fall is the best time to enjoy the Gunks.  If you would like to schedule a climbing or any other trip we offer give us a call at 845-853-5450 or email info@mountainskills.biz

Ralph Schimmenti climbing the first pitch of Erect Direction

Pitch 2 of CCK 5.7+

Wow!!!  What a weekend for climbing in the Gunks.  The weather couldn’t have been any better.  We did a ton of interesting trips this weekend.  Guided group hikes, guided rock climbing and guided scrambling trips all went out enjoying what this area has to offer.  Wes Converse even guided Moby Grape 5.8 III on Cannon in New Hampshire on Monday.  Congratulations to Wes and Sarah for climbing Moby Grape.  With the fall weather starting to take hold now is the time to get some amazing climbing in with us.  Call 845-853-5450 or email info@mountainskills.biz for reservations.  You can always check out our website www.mountainskill.biz for different courses.