Mountain Skills Climbing Guides and Gunks Rock Climbing Instruction

Gunks Rock Climbing – 845-853-5450 – www.mountainskills.biz – Guiding the Gunks and Beyond

Rock Climbing Red Rocks, Las Vegas Fall 09

Mike starting pitch 3 of Frogshead 5.8

The rock guiding season is winding down in the Gunks and vacations start coming to mind.  Red Rocks is one of our favorite spots for late fall rock climbing.  Mark Folsom, Mike Farnsworth and I decided to head out west for some long moderate climbing.  Frogshead 5.8 III was our first climb of this trip.  Frogshead is a total blast with each pitch being totally different from they other.  One of the best things about it was the walk off.  No stuck ropes on this gem.  The view of the Black Velvet Wall is amazing from the top of Frogshead. The next day we decided to climb Crimson Chrysalis 5.8 III.  We got to the gate around 6am to find a couple of cars in front of us.  Both groups were going for the same climb so we opted for Birdland 5.7+ II.  Birdland was pretty fun with the crux being on the third pitch.  Pitch 4 and 5 has really cool face climbing with a beautiful crack to finish pitch 5.  We rapped the route before any groups caught up to us.  Early starts really help with not having a ton of people stacked on a small belay perch.

The next day we decided to climb Crimson Chrysalis 5.8 III.  We got to the gate around 6am to find a couple of cars in front of us.  Both groups were going for the same climb so we opted for Birdland 5.7+ II.  Birdland was pretty fun with the crux being on the third pitch.  Pitch 4 and 5 has really cool face climbing with a beautiful crack to finish pitch 5.  We rapped the route before any groups caught up to us.  Early starts really help with not having a ton of people stacked on a small belay perch.

We decided since we got bumped on Crimson Chrysalis that day we would give it a try the next day.  We got to the gate first this time.  Cars started to line up behind us.  We thought for sure we would have company on the route.  The three of us basically ran up to the base of the climb and racked up for a full day.  We ended up being the only team on the route all day.  Amazing!

Crimson Chrysalis is 9 pitches and 1000 ft.  dead vertical.  The anchors are all bolted with poor stances at each belay.  Not super comfy for a team of three.  Pitches 2 and 3 can be combined as well as pitches 8 and 9.  The climbing is steep and exposed with good holds showing up when ever needed.  Just like the Gunks only on a larger scale.  We finished the route in 6 hours.  We rapper the route making sure not to get any ropes stuck.  What a fantastic day.  We had the route to ourselves with not another sole around.

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