Mountain Skills Climbing Guides and Gunks Rock Climbing Instruction

Gunks Rock Climbing – 845-853-5450 – – Guiding the Gunks and Beyond

Catskill’s ice conditions after the rain 12-15-10

Headed up to Stoney Clove yesterday with the red coats to climb some ice and to see if conditions were improving.   Things are moving along nicely up in the cloves.  The usual suspects are patching themselves up and some rarely seen lines are appearing.  The ice is a cross between sticky, wet, and brittle.  I guess that’s to be expected since it’s pretty darn cold out after a heavy rain.  As can be expected the approach to Stoney Clove is hideous.  A lite glaze of ice and snow over choss.  Move slow to keep your ankles pointed in the right direction.

We think we may have climbed a new rarely formed route yesterday 40 feet to the right of The Gurgler WI 3.  We called it The Red Coats Are Coming WI 4R/X.  The bottom is extremely thin ice with no gear for 45 feet.  Once you hit the yellow ice and a thankful stance you can finely get a 13cm screw in.  After that life is good.  These photos are of Wes Converse gettin after it on a onsighted  maybe/new route.


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