Mountain Skills Climbing Guides and Gunks Rock Climbing Instruction

Gunks Rock Climbing – 845-853-5450 – – Guiding the Gunks and Beyond

Buttermilk Ravine 01-14-11


A long time client of mine headed up to Buttermilk Ravine on Friday.  This was my first trip into Buttermilk since last season.  I like to wait until mid-season to climb this particular ravine.  With the 10 inches of fresh pow we received the other day I knew the 45 minute approach would a lot more manageable.  It’s just a way more ascetic of a route with a ton of snow on the ground.

I like to do all the pitches even if they are short.  It just seems like that is what was the natural intention was.  Pitch 2 took a serious beating sometime over the warmer months.  Tons of large downed trees litter the pitch and the approach.  I climbed it, but I don’t think I’m gonna do it ever again.  The downed trees have really taken away from the beauty of it.

The rest of the climb is in great shape.  Some of the easier lines are not really ready for safe solid screws.  The creek is still open is spots that are typically used for hiking from fall to fall.  With a little bit of a warm up this coming week, the snow should consolidate and make travel a little easier.

The upper pitches are in pretty good shape right now.  The right side variation of pitch 6 seemed a little thin in spots but totally doable.  The final flows are all ready to take a beating by tools & crampons.  Have at it.


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